You can’t talk about Saratoga’s food scene without talking about Hattie Moseley Austin, a Louisiana native who found her way to the Spa City and opened up a chicken shack on Federal Street in 1938. “Saratoga was fast, man; it was fast,” Miss Hattie once said of the era. “It was up all night long.”
Through the years, Hattie’s Chicken Shack became known not only for its famous fried chicken but also for its proprietor’s dedication to the Spa City community. “It’s not just legend, how giving she was,” says Kirsten Dart, whose family has been going to Hattie’s for generations. “My dad’s younger brother was killed in a tragic car accident the same year that my dad’s middle sister was graduating from high school. Miss Hattie catered the full graduation party for them for free because my grandmother wasn’t up to hosting.”
Though Dart’s family wasn’t related to Miss Hattie, that didn’t stop the restaurateur from treating them—and the rest of Saratoga—like they were. “It always felt like a family atmosphere when we were at the restaurant,” Dart says. “There were always lots of hugs—lots of joy.”
When Alex Lempka took over as executive chef of Hamlet & Ghost in 2021, the legacy of his predecessor loomed like a lingering spirit: celebrated chef Michele Hunter had transformed Hamlet & Ghost’s food menu from a cocktail hotspot’s sideshow to a crowd-drawing, main event. She’d even won Choppedon national TV along the way.
“That first season I took over, there was certainly a lot of trepidation,” says Lempka, who worked as Hunter’s sous chef for four years before she stepped down to create the food menu for Unified Beerworks. “That’s a big role to fill.” Fortunately for Lempka, whatever fear he felt at the beginning has since eased into well-earned confidence.
“I can rely on what Michele and a few other mentors I’ve had have taught me,” he says. “And now it’s like everything is starting to come together.”
Alex Lempka is known for his inventive dishes such as Chioggia beets from Edible Uprising dressed with pistachio vinaigrette and garnished with pickled blackberries and Chevre d’Argental Espuma. (Photography by Shawn LaChapelle)
This is, of course, Lempka’s exercise in modesty. The cocktail connoisseurs and foodies who keep Hamlet perpetually bustling know that to sip your way through the restaurant’s exquisite drinks or taste your way through its adventurous-yet-accessible dishes is to experience harmony itself: Libations are crafted with an emphasis on balance and skill, while meals are dictated by local harvest cycles. At Hamlet, there is synchronicity and balance behind all things. Most of all, it’s witnessed in the relationships of the people who are making it all happen.
At Lempka’s right-hand side is Bar Manager Gerry Akins, the mastermind behind Hamlet’s renowned cocktails. The two have worked alongside each other for five years, during which time they forged a tight bond that’s reflected in the menus.
“We spend more time with each other than we do with our actual families,” Akins says. “So Alex is like a big brother to me.” For the two men, this brotherly connection results in being one another’s fiercest—yet most reliable—critics.
Some of Gerry Akins’ concoctions are almost too pretty to drink, such as (from left) the Tomcat Gin Sidecar, the Antique Manhattan and the Fall Cobbler. (Photography by Shawn LaChapelle)
“I like to give him a hard time,” Akins says with a laugh, the pair’s ability to joke and jest bubbling up from a mutual trust in one another’s expertise. “We always, in a healthy way, critique one another.”
“This way,” adds Lempka, “we get to rely on each other’s strengths.”
These advantages have helped carve out Hamlet’s niche in the local Saratoga food scene—marrying metropolitan influences with the local integrity of upstate New York.
In Lempka’s kitchen, ingredients that were grown right here in local soil get treated with techniques that have origins across the globe, with signature dishes including pork belly with fennel and pesto rosso, and beets marinated in reduced red wine and sourdough miso and served with pickled carrots and sheep’s milk yogurt. The same ethos applies to what goes on behind the bar, where your cocktail might be garnished with citrus oil to enhance its aroma.
While Akins perpetually has his eye attuned to what’s going on in the wider scene—be it in Seoul, Dubai, New Orleans or New York City, he’s always thinking about how innovation can translate locally: “I’m just trying to bring cool stuff to upstate New York.”
This ethos is shared by Hamlet’s owners, Brendan Dillon and Dennis Kiingati. Dillon says the goal has always been to create a restaurant that could feel at home in both places.
Alex Lempka and Gerry Akins often give one another constructive criticism on dishes and drinks. (Photography by Shawn LaChapelle)
“We’ve always tried to cater to people who enjoy what we’re doing,” he says. “And that doesn’t matter if you’re 15 years old or 80 years old. We’ve got customers at both ends of the spectrum. If you like that we’re doing some creative stuff and trying to be a little different, anybody is welcome.”
Recently, that included welcoming chef Alex Napolitano of the esteemed Maker Hotel in foodie mecca Hudson to Saratoga for a collaborative dinner with Lempka.
“At a lot of the restaurants in the area, you don’t really see these collaborative dinners or menus—at least not very often,” says Lempka. “But in the major food scenes, that’s pretty common. You’ll see chefs traveling across the country and making dinner with other chefs of equal talent.”
Such dinners are can’t-miss events for local foodies. Plus, they provide space for chefs to get creative and take risks.
“It was really great, because the team got to see a lot of stuff that they don’t typically see,” Lempka says. “That’s what I was most excited about—I got to learn something.”
Fortunately for us, Lempka’s curiosity and appetite for mastering new skills is insatiable. From the brand-new fall menu to upcoming collaborations, Hamlet & Ghost offers a beacon of food and beverage creativity for the Saratoga locals who are hungry for the new and exciting.
From buzzy nightcaps and yummy vegan dishes to the inside dirt on each of Saratoga’s coffee shops, no local food or drink was left un-tasted in the making of this everything guide to Saratoga’s food and drink scene.
The 3 Best Vegan Dishes in Saratoga
Saratoga was a little slow to hop on the vegan train (hey, herbivores need to eat, too!). But recently, vegan dishes—and an all-vegan smoothie joint—have been sprouting up around town. Here are three of the best.
• Cantina’s Veggie Burrito (with salsa verde instead of crema and ranchero)
• BARE Blends’ Coffee Crunch Smoothie Bowl (ABOVE)
• Kraverie’s Jap Chae Noodles
The 3 Best Dishes Under $15 in Saratoga
While the Spa City is known for its high-end, three-dollar-sign restaurants, it has a fair deal of affordable options, too. Looking for lunch on a budget? Here’s where to find it.
• Duo Japanese’s Lunch Special
• Olde Bryan Inn’s French Onion Soup (ABOVE)
• Putnam Market’s Cold Bar
The 3 Best Side Dishes in Saratoga
If you love to order a side of veggies for your table to split with dinner, Saratoga isn’t really the place for you. Honestly—where are all the healthy side dishes, people?! While we wait, we’ve IDed three worthy shareable sides among the Spa City’s sea of entrées and apps.
• The Merc’s Smothered Green Beans
• Salt & Char’s Local Asparagus
• Morton’s cheat day Creamed Spinach (ABOVE) or Sautéed Spinach with Button Mushrooms
The 3 Best Desserts in Saratoga
Did you save room? Indulge yourself in one of life’s sweeter things—like these three Saratoga Springs desserts.
• 15 Church’s Zeppoles
• Mrs. London’s Almond Croissant (ABOVE)
• 13 North’s Cheesecake
Drink Up
Saratoga’s a restaurant town, but it’s, undoubtedly, also a drinking town. Whether you’re on the hunt for the craftiest craft beers, the finest wines or the best bourbons, the Spa City delivers.
Best Beer Selection: Henry Street Tavern
Best Whiskey Selection: The Bourbon Room
Best Wine Selection: Bocage Champagne Bar
Secret’s Out
Earlier this year, we published an article on Saratoga Living After Hours entitled “Saratoga’s Best Kept (Culinary) Secrets.” Missed it? We revisit the three dishes with cult followings—click here to read the full story (and be sure to subscribe to never miss another SLAH story).
Turkey Club from Trotters
Trotters isn’t necessarily known for its food, but word of its legendary turkey club (made with turkey smoked in house) has spread through Saratoga’s restaurant industry workers and beyond like wildfire.
Muffins from Hannaford
Local moms can’t stop buying Hannaford muffins—chocolate chip, pumpkin and corn—and the grocery store even landed a Capital Region Living Bestie award for its four-packs.
Steak from Pennell’s
Forget what you think you know about Italian restaurants. News anchor Mark Mulholland and construction magnate Sonny Bonacio are just two of the many locals who know to order the New York strip at Pennell’s.
Raise the Bar
Sometimes you go to the bar for a drink—other times you go to hang out with the person who’s making the drinks. Here are three local bartenders worth stopping in to see, according to Saratogians.
Sal Mafunsalo
Photography by Konrad Odhiambo
Where he works: Hattie’s for 18 years
Where he’s worked: Siro’s for 8 years
Bartending philosophy: “Make people happy.”
What people are saying: “He’s always in a good mood. He’s always smiling. He’s a legend in this town.” – Derek Lott
Miles Merton
Photography by Konrad Odhiambo
Where he works: Kindred Saratoga, as wine director, since June
Where he’s worked: Bocage Champagne Bar for one year and Harvey’s also for one year
Bartending philosophy: “When I go to restaurants or bars, it’s a little escape; I want everyone who sits down at my bar to feel the same way.”
What people are saying: “Besides being amiable, Miles has sommelier bona fides. I can have a back and forth with him, and I know he will point me towards something I hadn’t considered.” – Tiina Loite
Ashley Freeman
Photography by Konrad Odhiambo
Where she works: Trotter’s for one year
Where she’s worked: Cantina for 12 years
Bartending philosophy: “I don’t really have one. You just need to really be able to read the room.”
What people are saying: “She’s always on her game, she’s super approachable, and you never have to wait.” – Steve Bouchard
Worth the Drive
Saratogians have a reputation for never leaving the town’s confines. But we’re here to tell you that if you’re foodie, it’s high time to get over that. Here are our favorite outside-the-Spa-City eateries, and how many miles they are from downtown.
Park & Elm
17 miles Glens Falls’ food scene is sizzling hot right now, so it was tough to choose just one. But Park & Elm, from the Doc’s team, is the newest can’t-miss stop, where fine dining (think housemade cacio e pepe and sinful seafood risotto) is seamlessly fused with gourmet food shopping, starting at 7am five days a week.
Scarlet Knife
23 miles A robust lunch menu, nightly live music and a beautiful dessert room give Latham’s Scarlet Knife an immediate edge—and then there’s the food. Favorite dishes include a chorizo and shrimp concoction served in a mouth-watering paprika garlic broth, mushroom thyme gnocchi, and a harissa-roasted rack of lamb marinaded in yogurt and served with toasted coriander tzatziki.
The Gem
33 miles This Bolton Landing “gem” not only serves up juicy, decadent bbq—we’re talking St. Louis ribs and Baltimore black angus pit beef—but The Gem gets a fine dining nod by pairing it all with the craftiest of craft cocktails. Think mules made with any top-shelf spirit of your choice, and gin and tonics concocted with house-made tonic syrup.
Sea Smoke Waterfront Grill
24 miles From the five-star 677 Prime/Toro team led by Jaime Ortiz, Green Island’s Sea Smoke Waterfront Grill pulls out all the stops. Get dressed up and head to the stunning dining room or sprawling patio to dig into signature dishes such as housemade lobster ravioli or anything from the extensive vegetarian/vegan menu.
Our Favorite Nightcap
Espresso martinis are the unofficial cocktail of Saratoga, and every bar has its own unique take on it. Here’s how to tell them apart.
The 2023 Saratoga racing season passed by in much the same fashion as track seasons of the last 150 years. Popular restaurants (*cough* Panza’s) were booked out for weeks on end, and popular bars (*ahem* Dango’s) ushered in hundreds of late-night revelers who were willing to stand in line down the block just to get in. The main difference between 2023 and, say, 1993? This year, with the pandemic mostly in the rearview and food industry workers enjoying fairer wages as a result of Covid-caused staffing shortages, the madness didn’t end come Labor Day.
“For a relatively small city,” says Steve Barnes, a writer who has been covering the Capital Region’s food scene for the Times Union since the late ’90s—when the town still fully revolved around track season—“Saratoga’s got an extraordinary amount of quality restaurants.”
Sure, the entire city sees a dip in business post–racing season, and some bars and restaurants may shut down for a week in September to give their staff a break. But, come fall, it’s business as usual for virtually every Saratoga establishment (Siro’s being the obvious exception). These days, there are a heck of a lot more restaurants than back in the day, when Panza’s, The Wishing Well and a handful of now-closed eateries were track-goers’ only dinner options. And today’s resaurants offer a lot more variety, despite what critics of Saratoga’s current food scene may say.
“It’s a lot more diverse in number and in style,” says Kim Klopstock, who got her start in the food scene working at Mrs. London’s, The Adelphi Hotel and Rock Hill Bakehouse in the late ’70s and early ’80s before starting boutique catering company Lily and the Rose. “I mean, we never had a Champagne bar.”
Indeed, in Saratoga you can now get white sturgeon caviar (Bocage), fried chicken (Hattie’s), Fra diavolo (Solevo), Irish nachos (Harvey’s), and spicy octopus (Sushi Thai Garden)—and even ride a mechanical bull (Nashville)—all on one street. Yes, the aforementioned Solevo is one of no less than a dozen upscale Italian restaurants in town but, according to Barnes, that’s both fairly typical of an upstate New York city and, actually, an underappreciated facet of this area’s food scene. “We don’t actually realize what a blessing we have in terms of Italian abundance,” he says. “People who leave here realize that when they go somewhere else, they can’t get good Italian. And we’re overrun with it.”
As for the fact that Saratoga is lacking in other areas—most notably Vietnamese (can we get a pho place, please?!), Greek, dim sum, traditional Spanish, French bistro and African—Barnes says it’s not that unusual. “Albany didn’t get its first sub-Saharan African restaurant until a couple of years ago when Keobi opened,” he says. “There are plenty of things that we don’t have, and I think it’s a matter of somebody risking it and finding success with it.” One example of a restaurateur who took that risk? DZ Restaurants President David Zecchini, who had success with his two Italian joints but decided to open the tapas-style restaurant Boca Bistro after returning from a trip to Spain. Spoiler alert: It’s been a success.
Another spoiler: Saratoga’s nightlife scene is enjoying similar levels of off-season business and diversification—we’ve got dive bars, cocktail bars, clubs, you name it—all while the bar industry folks become closer-knit than ever in the wake of several safety scares last year. That’s thanks to regular meetings and a new app that allows bar owners to communicate about problem customers in real time. “There’s a lot more communication between the managers, the bar owners, the staff, the bartenders,” says Jay Fitch, who co-owns Saratoga City Tavern and Kings Tavern with his brothers. “Everyone cares. Everyone has the same MO: Make money for their families, but then also get home safely.”
On a lighter note, Fitch adds that as far as trends go, he’s noticing a shift away from beer and toward seltzers, High Noon and mocktails. And he recognizes that his bars may not be able to provide everything this generation of party-goers are looking for. “I have no issue saying, ‘You want a cool cocktail? Go to Misfit. You want a great trivia night? Go to Tap & Barrel,’” he says. “There were 15 heartbeats, and now we’re starting to get back to one heartbeat.”
And one last trend? Well, that one has to do with us, the customers. “Covid changed our whole mindset,” says Klopstock. “Rather than just going out for dinner, now we want the community. We want to see our chefs and our mixologists. We want to be recognized when we walk in a restaurant. We want everyone to know who we are.”
So forget about Saratoga’s “food and drink scene.” Welcome to Saratoga’s food and drink community. Pull up a chair.
Lucy’s Bar, with its bounteous décor, has been a recognizable Caroline Street fixture since it opened in the fall of 2021. But as word spread, the tiny bar developed what can only be described as a great “problem” to have: More people wanted Lucy’s than could fit inside the cozy premises.
“We frequently get inquiries to book Lucy’s for private events, but the biggest concern is our capacity,” says co-owner Lucy Rivas. “So we thought, ‘Why not bring Lucy’s to the customer instead?’”
While attending a friend’s wedding, Rivas and her fiancé, Lucy’s co-owner Zach VanEarden, saw an opportunity to bring the charm of their beloved bar on the road. After falling in love with mobile bars while traveling overseas, they saw what the right mobile bar can do when, at the wedding reception, a tiny but attention-grabbing one sat in the middle of the ballroom, with beer, Champagne and wine taps for guests to enjoy. The cart was a hit and had everyone posing for photos all night. “Seeing it in action at a wedding sealed the deal,” Rivas says. “We were sold.”
Fast forward a year and the Little Lucy’s Mobile Barwas ready to roll. Sporting a mahogany wooden backing and antique brass touches—adding to what Rivas calls its “elegant Titanic feel”—its first gigs were a wedding and baby shower. At colder-weather outdoor events—Chowderfest, perhaps?!—the bar can even serve hot beverages such as coffee and hot cocoa. (The bar’s four taps can serve beer, wine, seltzer, cocktails and mocktails.)
Since the seasonal covered ceiling and stand-out entrance décor are part of the DNA at Lucy’s Bar, the look of Little Lucy’s was hugely important. “Zach personally customized it, and [co-owner] Kelsey [McPartland] and I hand-picked every feature to make it both photogenic and iconic, which is something we obviously take pride in at Lucy’s,” Rivas says. “This is a mobile bar that will elevate any event!”
Saratoga summer was fun while it lasted, but now it’s time to get down to business and back to school. Set your kiddos up for success with a few versatile pieces from GapKids, like this adorable faux-leather leather jacket modeled by fourth-grader Jane. There are plenty of ways to wear it, but we chose to pair it with a rhinestone-bedazzled flare jean (wide-leg is back, baby!) and a Johnny Cash graphic tee for a rock-solid look with a rock-on attitude. Accessorize with a flashy bookbag, and math class won’t know what hit it.
Third-grader Will, meanwhile, will be the coolest kid on the bus in a layered look that’s as cozy as it is stylish. On the coldest of fall days, the plaid button-down, jean jacket and puffer vest will all be in play, but he can always lose a layer after building up a sweat at recess. Will knows he looks good, too—during his photoshoot, he asked if he’d be on the cover of the magazine. With this amount of swag, we can’t blame him.
Launching any business in the middle of track season in and around Saratoga Springs can be a sink-or-swim situation. For Milton Tavern on Geyser Road in Milton, the experience was “amazing,” says co-owner Micah Henzel, who wanted a homey, go-to spot where regulars can dig into delicious, budget-friendly dishes—over a pint and with the littles.
Milton Tavern’s bar and restaurant is open seven days a week as it vies for position as the area’s home-away-from-home neighborhood joint. It serves a range of comfort food classics with a New England twist, and offers 13 beers plus one Prosecco—yes, Prosecco—on draft, as well as wine and, says Henzel, “pretty much any kind of liquor you can think of.” But what’s turning new customers into regulars is its relaxed atmosphere that’s comfy for the whole fam.
“We really just wanted to be that neighborhood place that families could come to not just a few times a month, but a few times a week,” Henzel says. “We’re welcoming to everyone, the food is great, and the prices are as low as we can make them.”
Henzel says the tavern’s been packed since opening day, and since the business was a long time coming, they were prepared.
“I’ve been sitting with Joey [co-owner Joseph Muia III] at the Horseshoe Inn for three years planning this,” Henzel says. “We were just waiting for the right space to open up.”
BBQ chicken nachos from Milton Tavern.
When Milton’s Jay’s Bar and Grill closed, the pair swooped in. They both have restaurant and bar experience: Henzel worked as a sous chef at Longfellows, Nanola and Henry’s Tavern, while Muia pulled taps and mixed drinks for a decade at Dozer’s Bar and Grill. Henzel also owns MJG Construction Group, which helped facilitate the gut-job renovation the pair wanted.
“We took out and replaced absolutely everything except the bar and the stage,” Henzel says. “It would have been a $150,000 job without my company, but we were able to save money that way”—and pass those savings on to diners.
“We really want families to just come here, have a good time and enjoy,” he says, “and be able to afford the food.”
The prices are fair, and the food is stellar. Best-sellers include the New England Bar Pizza (try the Utica Style, with a white garlic base, sausage, Italian long hots and Italian cheese for $14) and the Tavern Grill sandwich (roast beef, white cheddar, caramelized onions, bacon and garlic-pepper aioli for $15, with a choice of side). And there are plenty of tasty options for your return trip, as this is one tavern where familiarity is what’s on tap.
Raise your hand if you want a peaceful hilltop haven just 15 minutes from the hustle and bustle of downtown Saratoga. One couple has created just that: a French-style chateau at the center of 21 acres brimming with woods, walking trails, orchards, gardens and old stone walls à la Robert Frost. And after two years of idyllic living, life is taking them elsewhere—meaning (at press time), their hideaway is for sale.
“We just love this house,” says Fran Apy, who renovated the five-bedroom, six-bath dream home at 100 Nat Hill Road with her husband, Ray, after the couple bought the property in spring 2020. “It was originally built in 1990. We bought it for the fun of the renovation process and because we could see through the outdated style and layout to something that would be truly beautiful.”
With the guidance of revered architect Jeff DeGraw, the Apys upgraded every inch of this idyllic hideaway, prioritizing glass, glass and more glass—including massive floor-to-ceiling windows for taking in the fabulous vista of surrounding woods and hillsides. “Those are the best things: the land and the views,” Ray says of the property that at press time was listed by Roohan Realty for $3,499,000. “There are 20 acres with the house situated in the middle, so privacy abounds in all directions.”
The renovation was total—a new construction on a pre-existing foundation—with warm, natural hardwood floors, contemporary yet colorful decor, a full wine cellar and dry bar, ceramic tile baths, and an enormous soak-in tub on the third floor. Did we mention an in-ground pool for those hot summer days?
“The contemporary layout and decorative theme are so aesthetically pleasing,” Fran says. “The property is perfectly suited for those who want privacy, and it’s move-in ready.”
Old stone walls created after the land was originally cleared for agriculture crisscross the property. After farming was abandoned, the forest regrew into the lush one it is today; a developer eventually came along in 1990 and carved out the very top of the hill for residential construction that would boast those stunning views.
As for why the Apys would sell a private little slice of Upstate paradise, they say it’s time to downsize. “With two kids off to college and a third getting close, we’re finally getting serious about it,” says Ray, who plans to own multiple smaller homes in his and Fran’s favorite locations. “While Nat Hill is such a beautiful place today, we’re preparing for the next chapter in our lives.”
The next chapter of this hot property? Well, that remains to be seen—but with views like that, it will be worthy of a storybook.
During the sticky summer of 1960, the smell of success must have permeated the air around Cornelius Vanderbilt “Sonny” Whitney, who was in the heart of what would end up his most successful horse racing year.
Shown here making the rounds in the box area of the Saratoga Race Course Clubhouse with his wife, Marylou (chatting with Mrs. Edward S. Moore, owner of Circle M Farm near Sonny’s own Kentucky stables), Sonny was the proud owner of Tompion, the champion Thoroughbred that had already won the Santa Anita Stakes, the Blue Grass Stakes and the Forerunner Stakes, before cleaning up the Bernard Baruch Stakes early in The Spa’s season. Son of the mighty Tom Fool, Tompion would go on to clench the Travers and finish off the season with a Malibu Stakes win at Santa Anita. These trips to the winner’s circle helped Sonny’s C. V. Whitney Thoroughbred Racing Stable, which was started by his grandfather and carried on by his father before he took it over in 1930, win a whopping $1,039,091, the most of any stable that year. In fact, until then, only Calumet Farm, a dominant stable for the previous 20 years, had ever broken the million-dollar mark. And that wasn’t all. He also finished the year as its leading breeder, pulling in $1,193,181—10 percent more than that of the second-place breeder. “The union of these two accomplishments in one stable,” wrote Sports Illustrated, “is as if Charles Lindbergh had built the Spirit of St. Louis with his own hands before he flew it to Paris.”
Before those year-end tallies, Sonny and Marylou enjoyed an epic August in Saratoga that included Marylou’s first-ever Whitney Gala, the infamous charity soirée that would dominate the local society pages for decades. Then new to the scene, having married Sonny just two years prior, our beloved Marylou—our “Queen of Saratoga”—was just beginning her love affair with horse racing…and Saratoga Springs.
Don’t want to wake up early enough to see the horses train at the track? Photographer Tom Killips has got you. Check out his photos from this season’s morning workouts here:
