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Eight Cities In Upstate New York That Have Invented Their Own Cuisine

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A few months after I graduated from college, I bought a plane ticket and flew to Madrid, Spain, where I set out to live and work for the year. I made peanuts teaching English to bored businesspeople in and around the city, and was constantly worried that I’d have to buy that dreaded return ticket. But I made the most of it: I learned to really enjoy the Spanish culture, language and especially, the cuisine. There seemed to be this overwhelming national pride for food and wine that was easy for me to get behind. It was the first time I’d experienced a culture that really took their culinary output seriously, whether it be the myriad types of tapas sold with cañas (small beers) at bars across the city; the national favorites such as tortilla española, manchego cheese and oxtail stew; and, as I came to learn, the many varieties of buttery, cured ham. These were all dishes that were completely Spanish; nobody else could lay claim to them; they were part of a Spaniard’s identity.

My experience with Spanish food reminds me a lot of the various regional-only cuisines in Upstate New York. We might as well be a breakaway culinary republic. You see, here, we not only take pride in the fact that we’re not from New York City or some ritzy Big Apple wannabe suburb, but also that we have these great upstate-only dishes—the types one has to actually travel up here to enjoy in their purest or original form.

Below, I’ve included eight cities in Upstate New York (and one wild card category), where regional delights abound. Did I miss any? Tweet them at me, leave them in our comments section on Facebook or just send me a care package to enjoy in the office with my team. If there’s one thing we love to do at saratoga living, it’s eat!

Saratoga Springs
I had to start with my hometown—and the site of SL headquarters. While we may’ve called its origin story into question in our “I Do!” Issue of the magazine, the Saratoga potato chip is definitely a regional food that we can get behind here. Saratoga Chips sells what it calls the original recipe in regional supermarkets—and you can get versions based on the original in most of the dining locations in and around our city.

There’s also Saratoga Spring Water, which is about as Saratoga as it gets. You can find that all over the country—and well, a different, less-marketable type bubbling up from the ground here. Though the stuff that comes out of the water fountain in our hallway—and even the spring water you can get from the Spa State Park spigots—isn’t the same as the blue-bottled stuff, it’s all a satisfying Saratoga sip.

A darker liquid that originated close by and is now enjoyed by the masses? Death Wish Coffee. I realize the Round Lake company didn’t invent coffee, but Death Wish—with the help of a Super Bowl advertisement (see below) and loyal fanbase—has been able to conquer the Joe market with it potent, strong-as-hell coffee. Upstate mornings will never be the same.

If you have a sweet tooth, you’ve certainly come across a Peppermint Pig, which originated with the folks at the Saratoga Candy Co. Although they’re usually gifted and consumed during the holiday season, Peppermint Pigs can be purchased year-round. They even have names: Clarence, the fattest pig, costs about $21; Noel, a medium-sized oinker, costs $17; and Holly, the smallest one, goes for $8.

Esperanto's Doughboy
Caroline Street restaurant Esperanto’s has made a cottage industry out of doughboys. (Esperanto)

Last but not least is maybe the most celebrated Saratoga food of all, the Dough Boy (which we’ve also seen styled “DoughBoy”). Gifted to us by the brains behind Caroline Street’s late-night haunt, Esperanto, in the ’90s, the pizza-roll-slash-chicken-burrito is now being sold at Stewart’s Shops across the Capital Region, so it’s hit the big time. Read all about its history in this web-only feature.

Albany
If you do a deep-dive into Albany foods, you’ll have a tough time finding specific, regional dishes. Sure, spots like Jack’s Oyster House have been around since the 1900s, but oysters are something that proliferate the continental USA and are made just so by many, many chefs. I’d be surprised to hear someone say, “Hey, have you tried the X from Albany.”

That said, Upstate New Yorkers of the 1800s would’ve been quite familiar with a rather prolific delicacy: “Albany Beef,” another name for the overabundant Atlantic sturgeon that all but choked the waters of the Hudson River and were enjoyed by fish-lovers of the day. Alas, their ranks have depleted so much in our area that they’re Atlantic sturgeon are now protected and can no longer be fished in the Albany area. It’ll have you asking, “Where’s the beef?”

Famous Lunch
Troy hot dogs at Famous Lunch. (Jim K./Yelp)

Troy
I have a soft place in my heart for Troy, because I live there—and well, it’s a hell of a lot friendlier a place than it was when I was a kid growing up in Saratoga. The Collar City rings in with two types of hyper-regional snacks, both of which happen to be wed in holy matrimony. That is, the mini hot dog slathered in spicy meat sauce. Look in the packaged meats section of most local supermarkets like Hannaford or Market 32, and you’ll find both. Local restaurants that serve up the unique dogs include Famous Lunch, which has been selling the “Troy hot dog” since 1932; Hot Dog Charlie’s, technically in Lansingburgh, which has been doing it a decade longer; and Gus’s, which doles them out just across the river from Troy in Watervliet. What’s the draw? It’s sort of like the White Castle concept but for hot dogs: They’re three inches long, served in a special three-inch bun and covered in spicy meat sauce, onions and yellow mustard. You order them six or so at a time, and you just keep eating them until your hunger goes away. Have an antacid at the ready. (Famous Lunch even has a single-person record you can try to break: 38 dogs in 30 minutes, which has stood since 1996.)

Utica Greens
A delicious plate of Utica Greens. (Buffaboy/Flickr)

Utica
About an hour and change west of Saratoga Springs is Utica, which has long since been known as a hub for some of the best Italian food in the region, but also has more than its fair share of regionally tinged delights. Let’s start with the lunch and dinner courses: If you order Utica Greens at any restaurant in town (I’d suggest Aqua Vino), you’ll get a mountain of escarole greens, mixed with parmesan cheese, breadcrumbs, hot peppers and prosciutto. It’s great as an appetizer. Another pre-meal fixer-upper? Tomato Pie, which is basically a melted-cheese-less pizza, topped only with red sauce and a light sprinkling of parmesan cheese (it’s sublime). Main course-wise, I’d suggest a big, heaping plate of Chicken Riggies, which includes morsels of oven-baked chicken, rigatoni pasta (i.e. riggies) and a number of topping options, which include spicy or mild red pepper-based sauces or something comparable. If you’re a carb fanatic, take a stab at a bowl of salt potatoes on the side (you can also find these in nearby Syracuse). These are smallish potatoes, which are cooked in a salty brine, so that when they come out steaming hot, they’re covered in salt. I know from experience that they go really well in a backyard barbecue scenario, as a side-car to kielbasa or hamburgers and hot dogs (regular or Troy sized). And for dessert? Chow down on a Half Moon, not to be mistaken for New York City’s Black-and-White cookie. The Half Moon is less of a cookie than it is a cookie-shaped cake, with chocolate and vanilla frosting portioned out, 50-50, on either side, whereas a Black-and-White is usually more of a hard-cookie and -sugar combination. Plus, the base cookie-cake can either be vanilla or chocolate. The best place to pick them up is Holland Farms, but you can get ’em at Walmart, too.

Dinosaur Bar-B-Que
A hefty plate from Dinosaur Bar-B-Que. (Joe Shlabotnik/Flickr)

Syracuse
About two hours and change from Saratoga, Syracuse’s Dinosaur Bar-B-Que put Upstate New York BBQ on the map, and has since opened a number of other locations, including ones in Troy and the Big Apple. (Troy’s is right on the waterfront, and could make for a delicious follow-up to a mini hot dogs extravaganza, if you don’t eat too many of them.) Sure, the US South is where you get OG barbecue, but Dino’s been doing its own style since the early ’80s, and people have been coming back for more ever since. Plus, as far as we can tell, Syracuse never tried to secede from the Union, so there’s that, too. (Apparently, the idea for the restaurant originated at a biker rally in Albany, so there’s another type of food you can thank the Cap City for.)

One might also want to cite Cornell Chicken, but its main proprietor, Baker’s Chicken Coop, only has a brick-and-mortar at the New York State Fair, which makes it difficult to try year-round. Then again, it’s stand is open from August 22 to September 3—and it’s been there for 69 years—so all you really need to do is take a road trip to get there before it flies the coop for another season. Get on it!

Garbage Plate
Two of Rochester’s famous Garbage Plates. (PleaseRomaineCalm/Flickr)

Rochester
About 3.5 hours west of Saratoga lies Rochester, home to some of the greatest pig-out foods in all of Upstate New York. Case in point: the Garbage Plate, which dates back to 1918 and consists of the following battery of goodies all on a single plate: macaroni salad, home (or French) fries, baked beans, topped with ground beef and grilled onions (obviously, there are many different variations on the theme; Nick Tahou Hots is the originator, so that’s where we’d start.) If you’re interested in adding a little bit of beak to that plate, we’d suggest tracking down some chicken wings, grilling them up and painting on some Boss Sauce, a spicy/sweet concoction that’s been a local favorite since the early 1980s. Or if you like your bock-bock a different way, our suggestion would be the Rochester-centric Chicken French, which is basically just Chicken Francese, but we’re not going to complain.

Beef on Weck
Beef on Weck with a side of curly fries, please? (Randal Schwartz/Flickr)

Buffalo
While you’re in the Rochester area, drive the hour and change southwest to Buffalo, another Upstate New York food-first hub. There’s obviously the famed Buffalo Wings, which you can get just about anywhere else in the world now, but are done the original way there. Chicken’s not the only protein that gets love in Buffalo: Another regional delight you won’t find anywhere else is Beef on Weck, which consists of rare, thinly sliced pieces of roast beef caked with horseradish on a kummelweck sandwich roll—all to be dipped daintily in a ramekin of au jus.

For those that can’t wait to start firing up their backyard barbecue, there’s pretty much nothing that beats Chiavetta’s marinade, a Buffalo staple for more than 60 years, which goes well with pretty much any type of meat (my wife makes delicious grilled chicken with it).

By now, you probably have the meat sweats, so it’s time to add a little something sweet to your palate. Buffalo’s Peppermint Pig is its Sponge Candy, a chocolate-covered toffee that has a honeycomb-like consistency to it (hence, the “sponge”). Fowler’s claims to have made the first sponges in town in the early 1900s, so go grab a bunch there and fan out.

Spiedies
What a Spiedies looks like right before it’s devoured. (IndyDina with Mr. Wonderful/Flickr)

Binghamton
Just about due south of Syracuse is Binghamton, which lands on our list because of its plate, which we reminds us more of a Marvel comic book than it does how hungry we are. Nevertheless, Spiedies, or tender morsels of marinaded chicken (or any other protein) jammed into an Italian roll, are one of the truly awesome upstate-only delicacies. Similar to the Greek chicken/pork souvlaki you can get in street-food carts all night in the Astoria, Queens, down in the city, Spiedies can be consumed either in sandwich form or just eaten right off the spit. Thankfully, you can add Spiedies to your rotating backyard barbecue arsenal, courtesy of supplier (and famous purveyor), Lupo’s. (They’ve also got a stand at the New York State Fair, so you can double-fist it with some Cornell Chicken.)

Mozzarella Sticks
Go figure: Dunk one of these puppies in a pit of raspberry sauce, and you have a Capital Region delight. (Kim/Flickr)

Wild Card
I included this “wild card” section, because there are a number of foods that are said to have originated in Upstate New York with no real finger pointed at who made what first. For example, I’ve feasted on at least three variations of Fish Fry, once in Troy—where franchise Ted’s Fish Fry rules the roost—as well as nearby East Green Bush at Off-Shore Pier. Then there’s the type I’ve eaten in Utica (see: Club Monarch, et al.), and it’s a completely different style of sandwich but equally delicious.

For the pigger-outers out there, there’s the single greatest pre-dinner appetizer of them all, the mozzarella stick, which apparently has its origins up here—but only when it’s dipped in raspberry sauce. (Right after learning this, I sat down to lunch with my family at Carson’s Woodside Tavern in Malta, and what do you know? They had sticks and raspberry on the menu!)

Last but not least, the ubiquitous apple cider doughnut, which can be found all over the place up here, is a Capital Region staple, served best, in my humble opinion, in the fall, with a large, steaming cup of coffee or tea (my go-to dealer is Schuylerville’s Saratoga Apple).

 

The Calendar: What’s Going On In Saratoga Springs This Weekend

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Welcome to the Calendar at saratogaliving.com—our expertly curated list of the top events, live music, readings, workshops and everything else in between hitting the Capital Region on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. As always, the Calendar will be updated every Thursday, so that you’ll have a jump on your weekend plans. You’ll never have to ask “What’s going on in Saratoga?” ever again.

Black Violin at Troy Music Hall – Friday, April 13

Now that saratoga living‘s Design Issue is on newsstands, take a look at this excerpt from our latest “Dressing Down” section (page 128). It’s a hot tip about an upcoming show, which is happening this Friday at the Troy Savings Bank Music Hall:

Saratoga Performing Arts Center’s President and CEO Elizabeth Sobol introduced the SPAC on Stage series last summer, bringing on-the- verge artists to perform for a small audience seated directly on the stage. Classically trained hip-hop duo Black Violin was one of Sobol’s first picks, and the acclaimed group comes back to the Capital Region, playing at Troy Savings Bank Music Hall on April 13. Expect infectious energy, songs veering from classical to pop and deft interplay between Kev Marcus on electric violin and Wil Baptiste on acoustic viola—all in a beautiful room renowned for its acoustics. For more, go to troymusichall.org—Kirsten Ferguson

Black Violin will also be returning to SPAC on August 20 at 8pm. The show is sold out.

Friday, April 13

Dirty Dancing: Classic Story on Stage – 8pm at Proctors – 432 State Street, Schenectady

Latin Night – 9pm at The Newberry – 388 Broadway, Saratoga Springs

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Saratoga Tattoo Expo – 3pm to 11pm at the Saratoga Springs City Center – 522 Broadway, Saratoga Springs

Capital Region Guitar Show – 5pm to 9pm at the Saratoga Springs City Center – 522 Broadway, Saratoga Springs

Skidmore Theater Presents Julius Caesar – April 13-15, 19-22 (8pm and 2pm on Sundays) – 815 North Broadway, Saratoga Springs

Saturday, April 14

Dirty Dancing: Classic Story on Stage – 2pm and 8pm at Proctors – 432 State Street, Schenectady

The Wheel (Grateful Dead Tribute Band) with the Melting Nomads – 9:30pm at Putnam Place – 63a Putnam Street, Saratoga Springs

Pig the Star Storytime – 11am at Barnes & Noble – 3029 State Road 50, Wilton

Capital Region Guitar Show – 10am to 5pm at the Saratoga Springs City Center – 522 Broadway, Saratoga Springs

Saratoga Tattoo Expo – 11am to 11pm at the Saratoga Springs City Center – 522 Broadway, Saratoga Springs

Says saratoga living‘s Geraldine Freedman in the Design Issue’s “Dressing Up” section (page 126): The Ying Quartet will perform a program featuring works by Mendelssohn, Bartók and Dvořák on April 14 at Skidmore College’s Arthur Zankel Music Center. For more, click here.

Sunday, April 15

Saratoga Tattoo Expo – 11am to 7pm at the Saratoga Springs City Center – 522 Broadway, Saratoga Springs

Festival of the People – 12pm at Caffè Lena – 47 Phila Street, Saratoga Springs

Build a Wee Lassie Canoe with Larry Benjamin – 8:30am to 5:30pm at Adirondack Folk School – 18 Curran Street, Glens Falls

Tire Rack Street Survival – 8am to 4pm at the Saratoga Automobile Museum – 110 Avenue of the Pines, Saratoga Springs

A Beginner’s Guide To Hiking In Upstate New York: Part I

I’m looking out the window at saratoga living headquarters, and it looks like spring. Granted, our view is of the green cement side wall of the old Lillian’s Restaurant (soon to be the new Cantina) and my weather app says it’s below freezing, but a girl can dream. Here in Saratoga, spring fever hits early (this year, it was during that deceptively warm spell in mid-February) and doesn’t go away (we just can’t wait for warm nights out on Broadway). With the start of April, though, I think it’s safe to say spring is officially (almost) here.

Warm weather gets me excited for hiking. Yes, it’s technically still ski season—Killington’s snow is still in high supply—and yes, I did fit in a day hike in the Adirondacks between ski weekends this winter, but there’s something about leaving home without a winter coat that gets me pumped for muddy trails and mosquito bites. It’s recently come to my attention though, that there are upstanding citizens, right here in Saratoga, who may not feel the same way. It’s just not right.

So I’ve taken it upon myself to provide such people with an Upstate New York hiking starter pack. These five hikes—of increasing distance—are all in the Lake George region, and if hiked in succession, might not only whip you right into shape, but also get you hooked on hiking.

1. Pilot Knob Gazebo

Elevation: 1,000 feet
Vertical Rise: 620 feet
Round Trip: 2 miles

Pilot Knob Gazebo
Becky Kendall and Liz Kenny at the Pilot Knob Gazebo.

Let’s start out slow. The hike to the Pilot Knob Gazebo at the Schumann Preserve in Fort Ann is one of the quickest, easiest ways to cop a killer view of Upstate New York’s favorite lake. The hike’s moderately steep, but before you get so out of breath you want to quit, you’re there, looking out over the southern basin of Lake George.

How To Get There
Take the Northway to Exit 20, turn left and pass through the Lake George Factory Outlets. Turn right on Rt. 149E and left at the Queensbury Country Club onto Rt. 9L. Veer right onto Pilot Knob Road, and the trailhead, a gravel pull-off, will be on your right. Once you strap yourself into your hiking boots, follow the orange trail a quarter mile to a fork. From there, you can go east for seven-tenths of a mile to the gazebo, or south for a longer, more meandering eight-tenths of a mile to the same destination. If you’re wanderlust still hasn’t been satisfied, continue on the blue trail just south of the gazebo for nine-tenths of a mile to the waterfall loop and go south to the base of the falls, or northeast to the top.

How To Do It Right
After a crazy (not) New Year’s Eve spent watching college football with your parents, seize the new year on this short hike. Bring your Micro-spikes (rubber shoe covers with spikes on the bottom) and the leftover champagne. Toast the first of the year as two bald eagles circle overhead.

2. Prospect Mountain

Elevation: 2,030 feet
Vertical Rise: 1,512 feet
Round Trip: 3 miles

Prospect Mountain
Natalie Moore and Brayden Kershaw atop Prospect Mountain.

Prospect is probably the most hiked mountain in the Lake George region, and for good reason: It’s super accessible, has picnic areas on top and offers an amazing 100-mile view. But don’t let the amount of traffic it gets fool you: Prospect is a steep little mountain.

How To Get There
Take a right off Exit 21 of the Northway and then a left on Rt. 9 toward Lake George Village. Before you get into the downtown area, take a left on Mohican Street and then a right on Cooper Street. Right before you get to Cooper Street Extension, take a left and another left, which will bring you to a metal staircase that leads to a bridge over the highway. (Yes, it’s definitely scary your first time.) But after you make it past the speeding cars and avoid falling to your death (just kidding), it’s smooth sailing from there. The trail is well-marked and easy to follow, and you’ll only feel a little bitter when you see cars driving up the mountain at the two spots the hiking trail crosses the Prospect Mountain Highway. But at the top, you’ll feel accomplished, looking at the people in dress clothes who took the easy street up.

How To Do It Right
There’s really no way to do Prospect wrong—all 20 times I’ve hiked it, it’s been great. But if I hiked it a 21st time, I’d definitely do a solo hike some time in the morning, carry up a hammock and a book, and spend the day on the summit, which, along with picnic areas, has ruins of the Old Cable Railway, which once brought passengers up the mountain to the Prospect Mountain House, a hotel that’s since burned down.

3. Fifth Peak On The Tongue Mountain Range

Elevation: 1,813 feet
Vertical Rise: 1,560 feet
Round Trip: 4.7 miles

Tongue Mountain Range
Hiking the Tongue Mountain Range on Lake George. (Natalie Moore)

Back to the Queen of American Lakes we go. The Tongue Mountain Range, known for its colony of rattlesnakes (you’ll hear them in time to steer clear) juts into the lake near Bolton Landing in The Narrows. There are 25 miles of trails on the range, but for beginner hikers, the 4.7-mile Fifth Peak hike will be plenty. (It’s probably plenty for seasoned hikers, too.)

How To Get There
Take Exit 24 off the Northway and hang a right on Bolton Landing-Riverbank Road. Continue to the end, and turn left onto Rt. 9N. In about four-and-a-half miles, the Clay Meadow Trailhead will be on your right. At the trailhead, follow the blue markers through a tall red pine reforestation stand and across a marshy area. Three-tenths of a mile in, stay straight at the junction, following the red trail markers. After another 1.6 miles, take a right on the blue trail for a half a mile and then take the yellow-marked spur two-tenths of a mile to the peak, where you’ll find a lean-to and fire pit—and a killer view.

How To Do It Right
If you’re not trying to get to the point in a hike where you wish you were dead and curse your father for convincing you this was a fun one, don’t continue past Fifth Peak. The views may be amazing, as you follow the ridge all the way to the tip of the Tongue Mountain peninsula, but you’ll eventually tire of the never-ending up and down to get there. And once you do, you’ll have a gloriously tedious 4.8 miles back to the car. So instead, I would recommend going up to Fifth Peak on a weekend afternoon with some friends and a six-pack, and camp out at the mountain-top lean-to.

4. Buck Mountain

Elevation: 2,330 feet
Vertical Rise: 2,000 feet
Round Trip: 6.6 miles

Buck Mountain
A couple on the summit of Buck Mountain.

By now, you’re definitely ready to tackle a more substantial hike. Buck is the big leagues; with a vertical rise of 2,000 feet, the mountain has the largest elevation gain on this list and is sure to get even a seasoned hiker’s heart pumping.

How To Get There
To find the trailhead, follow the directions above to the Pilot Knob Gazebo trail, and keep going. Just before you get to Camp Chingachgook, you’ll come to a well-marked parking lot on your right, and you’re there. Start along the trail—an abandoned road marked with yellow DEC signs and light blue horse trail markers—keeping right at the first fork and left at the second. Zig and zag up the mountain for about another mile, and take a left at the intersection marking the trail right to Inman Pond. Continue following the yellow trail, and you’ll eventually reach the rocky summit, a total of 3.3 miles from the parking lot.

How To Do It Right
Buck’s another hike you can’t go wrong with. Bring some friends and some lunch (and maybe a couple beers) and relax on the northwest-facing summit. To make the time pass quicker as you’re hiking, try playing “20 Questions” or Contact, the world’s best car game. After the hike, head to the beach (I would recommend the sandy area next to Million Dollar Beach) and soak your sore feet in the cold water.

5. Black Mountain

Elevation: 2,646 feet
Vertical Rise: 1,100 feet
Round Trip: 8.5 miles

Black Mountain
The view from the summit of Black Mountain. (Anthony Bracken)

Lastly, we head to the highest peak in the two mountain ranges that shelter Lake George: Black Mountain. The vertical rise isn’t nearly as large as Buck’s, but the trail to get to the summit is longer and more meandering. And it’s the only hike on this list that’s a loop, not an out-and-back.

How To Get There
Take Exit 20 off the Northway, go through the Lake George Outlets and take a right on Rt. 149E. Continue to Fort Ann and take a left on Rt. 4N toward Whitehall. Keep left in Whitehall on Rt. 22. Cross the south bay of Lake Champlain, take a left on Rt. 6 and another left on Pike Brook Road. A right on Adirondack Park Preserve will bring you right to the trailhead. The trail begins on a gravel road lined with red trail markers. About a mile in, you’ll reach an intersection. Follow the red markers along the right side of a field for 1.2 miles and take a right at the Lapland Pond Lean-to intersection. Continue following the red markers through one more intersection (you’ll go left), and you’ll eventually reach the wide-open summit which has a windmill and fire tower. After soaking up all the views you can (on a clear day you can see all the way to the High Peaks) continue on the red trail, which brings you down off the summit in a series of switchbacks. At an intersection about 40 minutes from the summit, you’ll veer off the red trail for the first time onto the yellow-marked trail. (The red trail continues to Black Mountain Point on the lake.) Thirty minutes later, after passing by several ponds, you’ll reach another intersection where you’ll go left on the blue trail. And 30 minutes after that, you should take the fork right onto the red trail to retrace your steps 1.2 miles back to your car.

How To Do It Right
Make it an overnight trip. Hike a couple miles into the Lapland Pond lean-to with a big group, grill up some hot dogs and continue your trek in the morning. But a word for the wise: don’t spend the whole trip wondering what that faint whirring sound is like I did: It’s not some sort of exotic bird—it’s just the windmill.

If you’ve completed all five of these hikes, you’re surely hooked on hiking. Stay tuned to saratogaliving.com for part two of this beginner hiker’s guide. Next stop: the High Peaks!

NXIVM: What You Need To Know About The Capital Region’s Most Secretive Organization

Twice a day, five days a week—and sometimes more, depending on whether or not I’m on deadline—I drive past Exit 8 on the Northway. My attention usually darts for a split second to the signs hawking fast-food restaurants, and by the time my gaze straightens out, the exit’s far behind in my rearview. I can’t say I’ve spent much time in Halfmoon, NY, but ever since the Saratoga County town has been showing up in the national news cycle, my interest has been piqued.

The center of all the intrigue? A group named NXIVM (pronounced “Nexium”), which per its website is “a community guided by humanitarian principles that seek to empower people and answer important questions about what it means to be human.” The group, cofounded by Keith Raniere, also launched a series of self-help workshops under the “Executive Success Programs” (ESP) heading. Harmless-sounding, right? Well, apparently, that’s only half the story. (Note: I’ve refrained from referring to NXIVM as a “cult,” because it’s unclear whether that’s the proper terminology for the group or not. That remains to be seen.)

According to the Albany Times Union, a townhouse in a nondescript Halfmoon development associated with NXIVM was raided by the Federal Bureau of Investigation in late March. The house is said to have been dubbed “The Library” by Raniere (a.k.a. “Vanguard”), who allegedly used it as a “private sex lair.” A few days prior to the raid, the 57-year-old Raniere was arrested in Mexico, where he was holed up with some female companions, seemingly on the run from authorities. He was charged with sex trafficking and conspiracy to commit forced labor. In a Department of Justice statement, FBI Eastern District of New York’s Assistant Director-in-Charge William Sweeney noted: “As alleged, Keith Raniere displayed a disgusting abuse of power in his efforts to denigrate and manipulate women he considered his sex slaves. He allegedly participated in horrifying acts of branding and burning them, with the cooperation of other women operating within this unorthodox pyramid scheme. These serious crimes against humanity are not only shocking, but disconcerting to say the least, and we are putting an end to this torture today.” Raniere’s currently sitting in a federal prison in Oklahoma City, awaiting trial in Brooklyn. He’s facing 15 years to life in prison, if convicted.

Per the FBI’s statement, the case developed over a period of at least three years (the group’s origins date back two decades). Raniere’s said to have had a rotating harem of 15-20 women at a time over the past several years, all of whom were forced to have sex with him. He also forced women into a secret sex club called “DOS,” which made them into “slaves,” and some of the women were branded on their lower abdomen with Raniere’s initials (a story alleging one such case broke in The New York Times back in October 2017). Furthermore, the women were forced to provide Raniere with “collateral,” in the form of nude photographs or damning information about their families and various personal effects. And a few of the women have turned out to be Hollywood actresses, including Allison Mack (Smallville) and Nicki Clyne (Battlestar Galactica).

Since the story broke of Raniere’s arrest, the group has posted the following message on its website: “In response to the allegations against our founder, Keith Raniere, we are currently working with the authorities to demonstrate his innocence and true character. We strongly believe the justice system will prevail in bringing the truth to light. We are saddened by the reports perpetuated by the media and their apparent disregard for ‘innocent until proven guilty,’ yet we will continue to honor the same principles on which our company was founded. It is during the times of greatest adversity that integrity, humanity and compassion are hardest, and needed most.” (The statement is also translated into Spanish; the group is said to have hubs in Mexico and South America.)

The story is developing, and more arrests are said to be imminent.

 

Saratoga’s Amtrak Trains Will Reroute to Grand Central Station This Summer

If you’re a Saratogian training it down to New York City this summer, expect to be deposited in a much nicer-looking station, with one of the world’s greatest food courts and oyster bars.

According to Amtrak, due to critical infrastructure upgrades that will be taking place to the Empire Tunnel and Spuyten Duyvil Bridge—as well as one of the main tracks at Pennsylvania Station—Big Apple-bound trains will be rerouted to Grand Central Station (they currently terminate in Penn). The change in service will begin on Saturday, May 26, and end on Tuesday, September 4.

If you haven’t been to Grand Central, I’d strongly suggest taking a load off at the Grand Central Oyster Bar or nearby saloon—or just exploring the historic, architecturally gorgeous station. It’s also basically a giant mall, with a number of top-flight shopping options in the building as well.

Affected trains include the Empire Service, Ethan Allen Express, Adirondack and Maple Leaf, the former two of which stop in Saratoga. All four trains also stop in Albany and a number of other local stations, which are varying distances from Saratoga. Additionally, the Lake Shore Limited, which stops in Albany, will only operate between Boston and Chicago, and Albany will become the hub for transfers from NYC and Hudson Valley customers via the Empire Service.

‘Saratoga Living’ Design Issue: Crossword Puzzle Answer Key

On the final page of saratoga living‘s new Design Issue—p. 140, for all of you keeping track—there’s a crossword puzzle, entitled “Built To Last.” Below, is the answer key—or for some of you, just the world’s greatest cheat sheet.

ACROSS

  1. TIED
  2. DRS
  3. ANTI
  4. WET
  5. BURJKHALIFA
  6. AHEM
  7. INA
  8. RAG
  9. SOBA
  10. CERA
  11. VIP
  12. SHAHS
  13. VIPERS
  14. AIM
  15. ALA
  16. STELLA
  17. SNIPS
  18. HEX
  19. KNOT
  20. TRIO
  21. ELI
  22. IVE
  23. HALL
  24. SPACENEEDLE
  25. TIN
  26. NEMO
  27. SET
  28. STUN

DOWN

  1. TAJMAHAL
  2. INK
  3. ETHIC
  4. DIANE
  5. DWI
  6. REF
  7. STARVE
  8. BASS
  9. UHOH
  10. REBA
  11. LARVA
  12. AIR
  13. GPS
  14. AILS
  15. SILK
  16. PANTHEON
  17. SHE
  18. TEL
  19. EXISTS
  20. IRAD
  21. PILL
  22. SOLE
  23. OVENS
  24. TENET
  25. PIE
  26. ANT
  27. EMU

Cuban National Ballet’s ‘Giselle’ Set To Thrill The Saratoga Performing Arts Center

In dance, as in life, we fall in love all of a sudden and then, if we’re lucky, we can spend a lifetime working out the details. Ballet, much like deep, enduring love, is nourished by memory at least as much as by its living and breathing everyday celebration. The first time we see Giselle, The Nutcracker or Esplanade is the occasion of the creation of timeless memories that, for each of us, inform the depth and meaning of subsequent experiences of these ballets. I should confess here that my own memories of Giselle—which the Ballet Nacional de Cuba is performing at the Saratoga Performing Arts Center (SPAC) June 6-8 in the most complete staging to be seen anywhere—go back a bit. To me, it’s personal.

I was born in Havana, where my mother was a dancer with Ballet de Pro-Arte Musical, the precursor of today’s Ballet Nacional de Cuba. Giselle, with Alicia Alonso and Igor Youskevitch, was the first ballet I ever saw, when I was six years old. Far from home and a bit of a lifetime later, I first interviewed Alonso for The Washington Post while I was still a philosophy graduate student at Georgetown University in 1980, and I’ve followed the Cuban ballet adventure critically, passionately ever since. A few years ago, I aimed to bring together memories, history and criticism in my book Cuban Ballet. In the meantime, as always, memory brought its own surprises. I’m fortunate that my own dance memories are many, and I also know that, at its most sublime, ballet can say things that cannot be said any other way.

Ballet certainly is a universal language. With Giselle in particular, that language for me has a strong Cuban accent. I’m not alone, mind you. There’s something about Alonso’s Cuban dancers. “When you see a Cuban dancer,” says Mikhail Baryshnikov, “he moves like nobody else, but in such a simple, noble manner.” The version Alonso first danced in New York City in 1943 and in Havana two years later—and the version I saw as a child in the 1950s—became something else: Alonso expanded and choreographed it anew for her Ballet Nacional de Cuba and for the Paris Opera Ballet in 1972, then for the Vienna State Opera and other major theaters. Giselle became the calling card for the historic US debut of the Ballet Nacional de Cuba at The Kennedy Center in Washington, DC, in 1978—a run that I will simply never forget. That Alonso staging note-complete, idiomatic and frankly, gorgeous—is what’s coming to Saratoga. It’s a revelation, a sacrament of beauty each time the curtain rises.

Alicia Alonso in the iconic lead role of Ballet Nacional de Cuba’s ‘Giselle.’ (Tito Álvarez)

Giselle has stood the test of time and mirrors the best in all of us in ways that transcend the centuries. It’s about love and loss, about forgiveness, about hope. It’s a masterpiece that speaks to us today at least as frankly and surely and sweetly as it did to its first audiences in 1841. Alicia Alonso’s Ballet Nacional de Cuba boasts an extensive repertoire, but it’s this romantic ballet in particular that the Cuban dancers claim as their own. Alonso’s Giselle is one of the most thrilling living, cultural spectacles of our time.

Giselle had its world premiere at the Paris Opera on June 28, 1841, with Carlotta Grisi in the title role, Lucien Petipa as Albrecht and Jean Coralli as Hilarion. It didn’t take long for the ballet to reach Havana, where it premiered at the Teatro Tacón on February 14, 1849, with Henrietta Javelly-Wells as Cuba’s first Giselle. The ballet entered the repertoire of the Teatro Nacional, now the Sala García Lorca of the Gran Teatro de La Habana, on February 8, 1917, with Anna Pavlova and Alexandre Volinine as Giselle and Albrecht. In 1920, three years after Pavlova’s first Havana Giselle, Alicia Alonso was born. That a French masterpiece based on a German poem, once best known through Russian interpretations, would be spectacularly recreated and defined by a Cuban ballerina is one of history’s loveliest surprises.

The first decades of the 20th century saw interpretations of Giselle, including Pavlova’s and even Olga Spessivtseva’s, which began filtering the ballet’s romantic vision through a Janus vantage point of both classical and modern eyes. It was the tragic Spessivtseva’s interpretation with the Ballets Russes that the young Antony Tudor learned and later taught to Alonso in the early days of Ballet Theatre. From the start, Alonso was miraculously at home with the romantic impulse, and she would in time transform many of the work’s details for contemporary audiences. She did this against terrifying odds. Many artists, of course, have been driven by cruel limitations, but Alonso’s case is unique. In a field that depends so much on the mirror and dancer’s self-image, and in which the visual presentation of the dancer’s own body is at the heart of artistic creation, here was a woman who was told at the outset of her career that she would soon be blind and would never dance again.

Alicia Alonso first suffered a detached retina in 1943, before her glorious prime. As she lay blindfolded recovering in Havana from the third of a lifelong series of eye surgeries—with her head couched between sandbags to prevent her retinas from detaching again—she ran through the whole of Giselle in her imagination, moving her fingers in her lap to rehearse steps as well as feelings in the dark. “I kept dancing in my mind,” Alonso recalls. She resolved to make real what her imagination dictated, to refuse to accept the limiting conditions of her existence. In doing so, she imagined what would become today’s Giselle staging—not only for the title role, but with the whole ballet living up to its choreographic potential. As the great French dancer, choreographer and opera director Maurice Béjart put it, “Alicia was born so Giselle would live.”

Philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre is right in his assertion that freedom is what you do with what has been done to you—that consciousness and choice are one and the same thing. Alonso was and is free, material conditions be damned, and blind or not, she became one of the greatest forces in the history of ballet. In 2018, her age is nearing the century mark, and when she says, “I plan to live to be 200,” one is tempted to believe her.

The story of Giselle is simple: A peasant girl falls for a boy who’s really a nobleman in disguise; when his elegant fiancée turns up, Albrecht abandons Giselle with the ease of a cad who’s already had his way with her. Giselle descends into madness and dies. We know she was sickly anyway, but she may’ve killed herself or perhaps just died of a broken heart. Whatever the reason—and each ballerina has the freedom to choose one within the choreography—Giselle’s love for Albrecht transcends the grave. In Act II, when vengeful female spirits roam the night to punish men who betrayed their lovers, there are miracles afoot, and Giselle’s ghost dances with Albrecht until he is safely back in the sunshine of a new day. By then, of course, Albrecht has lost her forever.

The choreography, too, is in many ways simple. Giselle was created in 1841, when seeing women up on their toes was still a novelty and the illusion of dancers “floating” was a recent bit of stage magic. There were later additions to Jules Perrot and Jean Coralli’s original choreography by Marius Petipa, but except for the Russian bravura of Giselle and Albrecht’s solos, these were kept to a minimum. The ballet we have now is very much a product of Paris in the Romantic Era, not least in terms of choreography. Nothing in Giselle is merely decorative: Every step and gesture has a theatrical purpose. “She can be a simple peasant, but she must be possessed of an elevated spirituality,” says Alonso. “My goal always has been to bring together the surreal and evanescent nature of the spirits that come alive onstage with the very real, earthly reality of human love.”

Details matter as well. Dramatic atmosphere is everything. If the arabesque in all its forms makes up most of the choreography, it’s a revelation to witness how much feeling that one step can communicate. Many details in the Cuban version are modern and designed for today’s audience. In the pantomime, for instance, Giselle tells Bathilde she sews for a living. In the original 1841 libretto, she mimed the action of weaving, which would be meaningless to a modern audience. This is a moment among many, a change in dramatic detail that Alonso devised while working with Tudor for what was to be her unexpected debut in the role in New York in 1943. Audiences know what sewing looks like, but few can envision weaving. It’s at once endearing and revelatory to find in the 21st century some smaller European companies such as Moscow’s Stanislavsky Ballet or St. Petersburg’s Maly Theatre Ballet maintaining in their repertory the “weaving” mime in Act I that virtually every other company by now has changed after Alonso’s example, from Havana to Paris, from San Francisco to New York and London. Nearly all other ballet companies have followed the Alonso staging in this and other details. “Real tradition; living, valid tradition must be open,” says Alonso. “It must be received from all around. One has to search out tradition, study it, acquire it and then feel free to live it.”

Author and celebrated dance critic, Octavio Roca, and Ballet Nacional de Cuba’s legend, Alicia Alonso. (Luis Palomares)

Some changes in Giselle are accidental. The round dance for the villagers in Act I originally consisted of one long line, half facing one way, half the other. Alonso, with her severely damaged eyesight, could not negotiate the uninterrupted run from Giselle’s end of the line to Albrecht’s—and this with the help of subtle finger-snapping or whispering from the helpful corps. So, in the Alonso version, the line is broken into four spokes of a wheel, all facing forward, with an easier route for this blind Giselle to follow in the dark. The change has worked so well on purely aesthetic and practical terms (a four-spoke wheel of dancers takes up a smaller stage area than one large line spanning a wider circle) that several productions from New York to London now also dance it this way—even without a blind ballerina. The resulting impact on the performance practice of Giselle is remarkable. It cannot be overstated how difficult it is to dance without sight—just trying to walk and turn with one’s eyes closed should suffice to demonstrate this. Paradoxically, to accept one’s lot is also to refuse. When Alicia Alonso had her dancer’s praxis stolen by blindness, she both accepted that brutal physical condition and refused to be determined by it. And the rest is history.

Most of Alonso’s changes to the original 1843 version of Giselle are, of course, not accidental, but rather conscious aesthetic choices. Turning the interpolated Act I peasant pas de deux into a dance for ten villagers manages to preserve a beloved scene in the Giselle tradition going back to the original Paris production, while at the same time avoiding the dramatic awkwardness of introducing an extra principal couple without a story of their own. In short, it’s a lovely way to introduce young stars. This scene, as traditionally danced, never fails to stop the dramatic action; Alonso’s solution solves that problem. Earlier in Act I, when the entire corps of villagers turns and stares over their shoulders at Hilarion, who’s unmistakably identified as being outside of the community identity embodied in the ensemble, the clarity of dramatic detail also subtly appropriates and elevates what’s elsewhere a dispensable connective musical passage. These and other musical matters, incidentally, could by no means be taken for granted before Alonso restored the Giselle score to its full splendor in 1972, when her productions both for the Paris Opera and the Ballet Nacional de Cuba boasted the first note-complete versions of Adolphe Adam’s score since the original 1843 version.

Alonso’s Giselle, over all those years and above all her other achievements, has been a profession of faith. Capturing an era and transcending it in triumph have made Giselle rank among the top theatrical works in history, including Shakespeare’s Hamlet and Corneille’s Le Cid, Wagner’s Parsifal and Ibsen’s Peer Gynt. Ballet has no richer masterpiece than this miraculously simple, endlessly fascinating dance about a love that overpowers death. Hegel famously observed that the owl of Minerva takes wing at dusk: Wisdom and deepest understanding arrive at the close of an epoch, at the birth of a new day. That’s true of Giselle, at once the apotheosis of romantic ballet and the glittering model for all classical ballets to come. It’s true also of Alonso’s staging.

Alicia Alonso truly was born so that Giselle would live. Her unique Giselle for the Ballet Nacional de Cuba remains a dialectical synthesis of boundless romantic passion and elegant classical rigor, of impeccably schooled respect for our cultural past and indomitable faith in our future. In the truest existential sense, she is what she does, and what she does above all else is this. Alicia Alonso is Giselle, in history, living onstage, forever in my memory.

Believing In ‘Magic’: Horse Racing’s Upstart Edwards Family And Its Meteoric Rise In The Sport Of Kings

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A few summers ago, just when e Five Racing Thoroughbreds’ horses first started appearing at Saratoga Race Course, few people in the horse racing industry knew anything about the stable and its fluorescent green-and-purple silks—including me. I remember grabbing trainer Rudy Rodriguez and asking, “Who is…what is e Five?” Rodriguez, an affable, chatty guy, conceded that he didn’t know much about his new client’s background either. It didn’t take long, though, for the e Five gang—that is, Bob and Kris Edwards and their children Cassidy, Riley and Delaney—to exit the land of the unknowns.

Not quite three years later, the Edwards’ stable has made a big splash in the Sport of Kings, sending their first three Breeders’ Cup starters to the Winner’s Circle—a record-breaking feat. And their Breeders’ Cup Juvenile winner, Good Magic—purchased for $1 million and co-owned by Stonestreet Stables—was crowned the two-year-old male champion in 2017. Good Magic’s now under the watchful eye of superstar trainer (and Mechanicville native) Chad Brown, and should be a top contender at the Kentucky Derby.

The Edwards’ good fortune began quite innocently, when Kris, a native Saratogian, traveled here, family in tow, for a cousin’s wedding in August 2015. She remembers giving Bob specific instructions when he took their daughter, Cassidy, to visit his business partner’s stables at Saratoga Race Course: “Don’t you dare buy a horse.” Of course, Bob didn’t listen to her, and that weekend, with the help of veteran bloodstock agent Mike Ryan, he purchased his first yearling filly for $255,000. “I know exactly how Bob’s mind works,” says Kris. “I knew that once he bought one horse, he was going to do it…” she says, trailing off, not adding “again” to complete the sentence. She then remembers driving around town with her father, looking for a property along Fifth Avenue—a stretch of Saratoga real estate that abuts the Oklahoma training track and is just a stone’s throw away from Saratoga Race Course. She already knew that Bob wasn’t going to be content playing around on the fringes of horse racing, so he’d need a Saratoga home, too. “When he’s in, he’s all in,” she says.

Since the Edwards know and understand what starting from the bottom and hitting the pinch-yourself strata looks and feels like—Bob cofounded Boca Pharmacal in his mid 20s and sold it for $225 million in 2014—they appreciate their breathtaking ascent to prominence in racing. To be sure, they’re fully aware that some of what they’ve done is unprecedented. Yes, the Boca Raton, FL, residents, who grew up in Upstate New York and met as undergrads at SUNY Plattsburgh on their shared birthday nearly 30 years ago, are loving the ride. From the quick and mighty deep dive into racing, e Five has grown, as Kris predicted, into an international stable of 70 horses. Just like that. To put that into perspective, I’ve been in racing partnerships with no more than a couple of horses at a time. But 70, all acquired by one family new to the game, in less than two-and-a-half years? That’s nothing short of mind-blowing.

Good Magic
One of e Five’s prized Thoroughbreds, Good Magic, will be vying for this year’s Kentucky Derby crown. (Mike Kane)

A stable of horses and a summer home on Fifth Avenue were not high on Kris Hoenig’s list of priorities when she graduated from Saratoga Springs High School in 1985. The Hoenig family—her parents Larry and Kathy still live in town—did spend some afternoons at the track, but purely for fun get-togethers. Kris’ connection to the track came during the summer before college, working for the Pinkerton security company. Kris ended up going to Plattsburgh to study business, and says that when she met the fun-loving Bob, who’d grown up in Highland Mills, NY (about two hours south of Saratoga), it was love at first sight: “I say that when I first saw him, I was like, ‘That’s it,’” she says. “He was a tall, scrawny young man, but very cute. He was into The Grateful Dead and followed them around everywhere. From my perspective, coming from Saratoga, I saw him as being a little bit of a bad boy, a little bit different. I didn’t know any Deadheads in Saratoga.”

Once they started dating, it became clear to Kris that Bob wasn’t all that interested in college. “He didn’t go to class all the time. He went up and down,” says Kris. But she tells me that Bob was on a different plane of thought than the average Plattsburgh student: “It seemed like he knew more than the professors did.” Kris would wind up graduating a year before Bob, heading back to the Capital Region and getting a job. “She was definitely more focused than I was,” says Bob. “Her work ethic was a lot stronger than mine at that age.” Kris also ended up giving Bob an ultimatum: “She told me, ‘Look, you’re on the clock,’” says Bob. He’d end up leaving school without completing his degree—he’d finish it later in Florida—and going on to fulfill his obligation to the Army Reserves, which had been helping him with his college expenses. He left for a few months of training and when he returned, a dramatic change had come over him, says Kris: “He was motivated; they took someone who was somewhat of a wiseass punk and turned him into a man.” Bob concurs. “Granted, coming out of Plattsburgh, I probably wasn’t the most mature of individuals, but I went straight into the Army, and they rebooted me,” he says. Then things sped up exponentially: The couple got engaged, married and a year-and-a-half afterward, had their first child, Cassidy. Having a child “made him even more focused,” says Kris. “He went full speed ahead.”

While the allure of college might’ve eluded Bob early on, he made up for it in kind in the world of entrepreneurship. Bob started in the pharmaceutical business as a phone rep in Newburgh, NY. He rose quickly in the company and was promoted to a management position in Florida. A couple of years later, confident that he understood the industry, he launched his first small pharma company. He’d eventually strike gold with Boca Pharmacal, which sold for hundreds of millions of dollars and made luxuries like owning 70 horses a reality. “That’s the key,” says Bob. “I’m a good coach, a good general manager,” joking that he wouldn’t compare himself to New England Patriots Head Coach Bill Belichick because he’s a Miami Dolphins fan. “You have to get the right pieces in play for the team. My wife and I are a team. I attribute a lot of my success to her putting a boot in my ass and redirecting me.” It didn’t hurt that she supported him every step of the way, too, when he struck out on his own. “She believed in me, and it ended up working out,” he says. “Whenever I had some self-doubt on some level, she’d tell me to get my act together—you’re doing the right things, just keep moving forward. We make a great team.”

Good Magic
e Five’s Good Magic won last year’s Breeders’ Cup Juvenile, setting up a run at the Kentucky Derby. (Mike Kane)

Kris sees a direct parallel between her husband’s success in the pharma world and e Five’s in horse racing. “I believe a little bit of magic is involved, for sure, but it’s a lot of hard work and being surrounded by a lot of great people that is the recipe for success,” she says. “I know that e Five has achieved it very early on in the racing industry, but I don’t know if there are as many people who’ve put in the time that Bob has, even if they’ve been in the industry for years and years and years.” Kris describes him as the consummate student of the sport. “Bob puts in his own homework,” she says. “He’s actually bringing ideas to the best people in the business, because he’s doing his research. He’s spending days and nights—family time—researching and trying to learn the entire industry in just a couple of years. He’s done remarkably well, obviously.” And if there were a clear winner between pharma and horse racing for Bob, it’d be the latter, says Kris. “He tells me, ‘Pharma is where I make my money, but it’s not a passion of mine. It’s not what I really want to do.’”

By the time Bob dove into horse racing, he’d come out of a short retirement following the sale of Boca Pharmacal to start a new company, e5 Pharma, which makes generic drugs for humans and animals. Racing has been a good find, Kris tells me. And it’s brought the tight-knit Edwards clan even closer together. “It’s taken our family on a whirlwind trip, and I don’t see it ending anytime soon,” she says. “I don’t see Bob ever getting out of the business, actually.”

And now, after I’ve gotten to know who this impressive family is—and better yet, what they’re capable of accomplishing in horse racing and bringing to Saratoga’s signature sport—I’m genuinely glad to hear that.

The Makeover Artist: Glen Coben, The Man Behind The New-Look Adelphi Hotel

As a hoary old reporter who’s found himself on the road a fair amount, I’ve come to despise hotels. Like traveling by rail or attending a mediocre Broadway show, checking in for a few days’ stay someplace has become a largely lugubrious experience, rather than the luxurious treat it used to be. But, on occasion, I find myself utterly delighted by those lodgings that take you back to a time when style, service, attention to detail and design, and respect for history still mattered.

The Art Deco marvel that is Sunset Tower Hotel in West Hollywood, CA, is one such spot: Where else is one greeted in one’s room, upon a return stay, by a dessert in the shape of the hotel’s façade, served on a plate with a personalized message scrawled in chocolate, in a glamorously revamped high-rise where Howard Hughes, Marilyn Monroe and Bugsy Siegel once had pieds-à-terre? The stately Alvear Palace Hotel in Buenos Aires, which opened in 1932, is another. It still hosts a formal tea every afternoon in the hotel’s garden, where guests favor chic suits and hats over jeans and sneakers, a setting deserving of Evita herself. Sigh, I just wasn’t born for these times.

Saratoga Springs is also a place of great beauty and renown—and, as a venerable Upstate New York destination, home to lots and lots of hotels. I’ve long been fascinated by stories of the city’s magnificent landmarks from back in the day, such as the Grand Union Hotel, largely relegated to memory now. Like most locals, including myself, you were no doubt overjoyed last October when the Adelphi, the imposing, long-shuttered Victorian colossus that first threw open its doors back in 1877, finally started welcoming guests again. After more than five years of loving restoration, one of the last surviving hotels of Saratoga’s Golden Age has quickly emerged as the crown jewel of Broadway, a stylish, sparkling haven for locals and visitors alike. You’ve no doubt sneaked a peek at the lobby—or perhaps have enjoyed Sunday brunch amid the fashionable swarms at The Blue Hen restaurant or indulged in a Sazerac at Morrissey’s, the inviting, dark-paneled watering hole off the lobby, named for John Morrissey, the rascally Irish boxer and, later, New York politician instrumental in bringing horse racing to Saratoga.

I caught up with Manhattan-based architect Glen Coben, of Glen & Co., who designed the interiors of the Adelphi—following the property’s exacting renovation by Schenectady-based architect Dominick Ranieri—to learn what inspired his re-imagining of this magnificent hotel. The Brooklyn-born Coben, who has designed numerous hotels, restaurants and retail establishments from Midtown to Montauk, relates that the Adelphi was a labor of love for all involved. The place “needed a whole lot more than just a little TLC,” he says. “The front porch columns were completely rotted out. The building was falling down.” Rigorous research of the Victorian aesthetic, the history of the Adelphi and the city informed the makeover. Says Coben: “We brought back its glamour, the hospitality—an Adelphi state of mind.”

The hotel was, in fact, designed to be not only a place to lay one’s head, but also a space for people to gather, laugh, live and love. Coben points out that while there are only 32 guest rooms, the facility as a whole provides seating for some 200. Fluorography—or images of plants and flowers—played a major part in the design as well. Coben worked with the Portland, ME, firm Might & Main to create the distinctive floral patterns seen throughout, which reflect the theme of hospitality as well as the hotel’s bucolic setting and its culinary bona fides. (And look for the little bumblebees imbedded into the light fixtures: “The bumblebee nods to the humble nature of a bee making honey from flowers, so it ties back to fluorography, but it also points to the fact that New York bees make great honey,” says Coben.)

Other unique design elements include the hand-painted ceilings, an imposing glass wall behind the registration desk that incorporates found antique plates made of crystal, and—as this is Saratoga—the whimsical horse heads curiously poking out from behind the bourbon and gin bottles at Morrissey’s. “These are all the little touches that we as designers love—weaving little bits of stories into the bigger story,” Coben says. “That, in a nutshell, is the inspiration of Victorian design—so rich with detail. We’ve taken that detail and made it specific to this special place.”

Milton Glaser, the graphic artist best known for creating the iconic “I ♥ New York” logo in the ’70s, once suggested that any piece of design elicits one of three responses: “Yes, no and WOW!” Just six months into its unveiling, the Adelphi continues to wow our town. And I’m all in.

Rachael Ray: How Lake George’s Own Media And Entrepreneurial Superstar Conquered The Design World

I like Rachael Ray. A lot. On this, America and I agree. The lady’s a star. For a decade now, I’ve had the pleasure of making regular appearances on Rachael Ray, where I help transform her TV viewers with makeovers and beauty tips. It’s always a blast to watch Rachael work her culinary magic and entertain America as she strives to keep us well fed and well informed. I’ve observed Rachael on and off camera, with celebrities and interns, dressed up and down. I’ve seen her endless generosity with her guests, often giving away romantic dinners and gifts when the cameras aren’t rolling, and I’ve been the recipient of it, too. Rachael and her producers kept me busy during a very difficult time in my life—as I cared for my dying mother—and coming to New York City to tape episodes of Rachael Ray gave me a sense of normalcy, which I so needed during that very difficult period. Still, after all these years, there was a lot I didn’t know about her, but I’ve always known this: Rachael Ray is the hardest-working person I’ve ever met, she’s sharp as a tack and has impeccable taste. For Christmas last year, she gave me a gorgeous book about the artist John Derian, which has a permanent spot on my coffee table. I love the book, and I love that she thought of me when she saw it.

Most of the time I spend with Rachael is on set, where our conversation is limited to hair and skincare products and Italian wine. So I was thrilled when my dear friend and saratoga living Editor in Chief, Richard Pérez-Feria, asked me to interview the Capital Region’s hometown sweetheart for the cover story—to actually sit down with her, one-on-one, as part of her crazy busy day, which entailed filming two shows and posing for the magazine cover with more than 50 pairs of eyes dead-set on her, and just talk. I never knew just how close she is with her mother, or about how delicious meals are just one of the many ways she expresses her inspiring creativity. I never knew that she loved to read, or that, even after being a celebrity chef all day, she goes home to cook the meals she knows her family likes. And I never knew the background behind her courageous entrance into the world of interior design. I do now.

Rachael Ray
Rachael Ray celebrated her 2,000th show on October 26, 2017, with the help of talk show legend, Oprah Winfrey.

Rachael Ray was born in Glens Falls and moved with her family to Lake George when she was eight, where she stayed through high school. Her mother, Elsa, managed restaurants in the Capital Region, including the last surviving Howard Johnson’s in Lake George. After a stint working at Macy’s Marketplace candy counter in New York City in the ’90s, Rachael returned home to Upstate New York, where she managed Mr. Brown’s Pub at The Sagamore on Lake George and then worked as a buyer at Cowan & Lobel, a gourmet market in Albany. She began teaching “30 Minute Meals” classes, which garnered the attention of the local CBS news affiliate and eventually the Today show. Now, besides hosting the multiple Daytime Emmy Award-winning talk show Rachael Ray, she hosts a trio of Food Network series, heads two nonprofits, toplines the eponymous (and best-selling) Rachael Ray Every Day magazine, has her own cookware and pet food lines and is a world-class furniture designer. It’s a lot. And she does it all so damn well.

Throughout Rachael’s ascending career, she hasn’t forgotten where she came from. She still keeps a house in Lake Luzerne, where she goes to get away from her intense Manhattan life. And Saratoga Springs? She considers it her backyard. “You go to Saratoga for the arts: The jazz scene, Skidmore College, Saratoga Performing Arts Center. The place I’d always go first when I’d go down to Saratoga was the Lyrical Ballad Bookstore. I love music and read actual books, and Saratoga is where you go to get that stuff.” And her thoughts on Lake George? “I just think ‘home.’”

A pair of metal canopy beds from Rachael’s Chelsea Collection.

A year-and-a-half ago, the tireless entrepreneur launched Rachael Ray Home, a furniture collection that included three distinct lines named after three areas of New York: Soho, Highline and Upstate. The products in each line were clearly created with their namesakes in mind—the Upstate line is more traditional and relaxed than the city-named lines, and features an intricately made, polished but comfortable-looking sofa called, appropriately enough, the Lake George sofa. Since then, her collection has expanded to several other lines, including Hudson and Chelsea, her youth-centered lines, and the Cinema line, which reflects her love of Old Hollywood style. I ask Rachael to sum up her design aesthetic in one word. “Eclectic,” she says. “I don’t like matchy-matchy. I don’t like anything to look forced. I want people to take our furniture and make it their own. All of the colors and all of the lines, in my opinion, mix and match. I want people to have fun with this stuff.”

The Rachael Ray Home website has a quote that I love: “I want everyone to feel as welcomed home by their spaces as I do by mine.” “Welcoming” to Rachael means tidy but lived-in, she tells me, pointedly. When she was young and struggling financially, if she had to be at work by 5am, she’d wake up at 3am to make sure her living space was clean and ready to receive her when she came home late at night. “Since I was a kid, I’d spend my last ten bucks in life on flowers or a pillow at the odds-and-ends store. To me, the aesthetic of life is about good food and your environment.” She says she likes to imagine that her home has a life of its own while she’s away. If she can tell that a worker or a delivery person has been in her space, she apologizes to the space for the disruption. She respects her home as its own entity, similar to the respect one gives a family member or pet. It seemed so obvious to me that this inherent love of her home is what made her such an instinctual designer. “I think that having a home environment that you’re proud of and is welcoming is an essential part of life,” she says, excitedly. “Whether you’re rich or poor, it makes no difference. It changes the quality of your life. It changes how you treat other people. It changes how you face your day and how you end your day.” Pride in one’s home is part of the reason Rachael loves traveling to Italy and the South of France: No matter how poor people appear to be, they sweep their stoop every day, and everyone has fresh-cut flowers on their table. “There’s a respect for themselves and for their environment.”

Rachael Ray
Rachael Ray’s Everyday Dining Collection, featuring her oval back side chair in sea salt.

Coming of age in the early 1990s, I remember hearing about Madonna’s legendary work ethic. Rachael has it too. (Have you seen her résumé?) Her work ethic comes from the way she was raised: Her mother allowed her to stay up past her bedtime if she was creating something—a drawing or painting—or if she was reading. She said she learned that there was freedom in creativity, and she liked that freedom. Thus, Rachael Ray Home.

“Why did I start designing furniture? To face a fear. I didn’t think that people would take me seriously, because I don’t have a degree in design,” she says, candidly. In fact, Rachael claims she’s been underqualified at every step in her career. When her furniture line won a design award shortly after its release, she was embarrassed looking at the long list of college-degree qualifications that followed the names of all the other winning designers. “My listing said ‘Rachael Ray’—period.”

All academic credentials aside, design is about creativity and problem solving, which are things Rachael Ray has proven she possesses again and again. Whether she’s explaining how to cook a complex dish in a simple, accessible way, figuring out how to design a cabinet so that you never have to see the electrical cord attached to the gaming console inside, or making furniture that looks beautiful from all angles, so that it can just as easily go in the middle of a room as against a wall, Rachael is always thinking about the best way to do things. Just look at the massively successful oval pasta pot she released more than a decade ago, an obvious culinary upgrade that only she was bright enough to bring to market. “Spaghetti is freaking long!” she says. Yes it is.

The second reason Rachael gives for her entrance into the furniture design world is frustration. “I think that not enough of the furniture that’s affordable is made in America, and I don’t think it’s smart. It’s made in a crap way, because people can get away with it. And furniture that’s really well made and extremely expensive? The case goods are still made in China.” Rachael Ray Home’s products are made as entirely in America as possible. The factory is run by two women, and has an apprenticeship program where young people can learn the old-school way of building furniture. “I don’t mind global trade,” Rachael says. “I just think you should do as much as you can in our country and bring back as many jobs as you can.”

As I sit listening to Rachael Ray, I realize it’s quite an experience. She’s a woman with strength, vision, clarity and exuberance. She’s also spectacularly indefatigable—the Energizer Bunny has nothing on Ms. Ray. During our conversation, I casually called her a powerhouse, and she quickly shut me down. Rachael doesn’t like the word “power” and all that it implies. She’s a person of fairness, generosity and her own brand of kindness. She’s got moxie—a much better way of thinking about her, I find. Rachael Ray is a person of raw talent, unbridled energy and brazen courage. And I get to call her my friend.

No wonder everyone loves Rachael Ray. You should, too. After all, she’s one of us.

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About the Author

Kyan Douglas
(Photo by Myrna Suárez – Hair by Carrie Fernow Minchin, NYC – Grooming by Robin Hamilton, NYC)

The Emmy Award-winning grooming expert on the original Queer Eye, Kyan Douglas has had a regular makeover segment on Rachael Ray for more than a decade. “Looking over Rachael’s furniture collections got me excited about design, because her pieces are both elegant and familiar,” he says. “It’s similar to being on set while she’s cooking: Your mouth waters as the aroma of her food fills the air. Her designs stimulate my passion for the possibility of my own space.”